Renovent HR Medium/Large - Brink Climate Systems

[sincze]

THat will not work. Your shelly device needs 220V to power up! At least that is my expectation. WIthout 220V you cannot control your Shelly device.

Totally agreed.

This is the 5 euro solution for my neighbor. Will only flip the WTW from 1 to 3 ;-0 no filter indication.

WTW 2.jpeg (23.58 KiB) Viewed 2292 times

[JohanP75]

Update: the shelly powers up at 24V! (confirmed it myself) and the switches work! Unfortunately for me the switches didn't do the job for me when activated as described earlier. I also improved it according the shelly schedule I think but still no results.

So that it will be it for me for now. It was fun to try. Thanks for the tips I'll may look into them later.

[jayzb]

Update: the shelly powers up at 24V! (confirmed it myself) and the switches work! Unfortunately for me the switches didn't do the job for me when activated as described earlier. I also improved it according the shelly schedule I think but still no results.

So that it will be it for me for now. It was fun to try. Thanks for the tips I'll may look into them later.

Hey, thanks for sharing. Thinking of doing something similar as it would a very elegant and simple setup. Did you ever get this working?

According to official specs Shelly 2.5 is supposed to work on 220-240V AC or 24V DC. You said it fired up for you using 24V so I'm assuming connection/pin 1 from RJ12 gives off 24V DC (not AC)?

[DosN]

I have also a brink renovent

I can only find the inputs , so set teh fan to high , low or sleep

But is it also possible to read the sensor for the renovent , like . speed, temperature etc ?

grtz

[sincze]

No idea. Interesting question.

That would require some sort of serial connection to the main board.

[Sidiox]

Adding on the conversation, it is quite 'easy' to control a Brink HRV with OpenTherm. I used a board from Tindie as a control board.
https://www.tindie.com/products/jiripra ... no-shield/

I've done a full write up on how to control (and read the sensors) for a Brink HRV myself: https://portegi.es/blog/opentherm-wtw-1
You can read 2 temperature sensors; supply and exhaust temperature, the fan speed and a few other things via OpenTherm.

In my setup I just push them to Home-Assistant via MQTT and then graph them in Grafana

[T1NBK]

Just for some extra information:
C3 is speed preset 1
C4 is speed preset 2
C5 is speed preset 3
C6 is dirty filter alarm indication.

C3 can be skipped becaurse the unit goes to speed preset 1 by default when C4 or C5 are not connected.
C6 is a +24Vdc too C2 when the filter is dirty. I used a solid state relay to create an isolated signal to connect this output to my PLC.

Hey excellent. mine sais FILL ore something like that on the display.
According to your information above I can monitor that as well???

I have to build a new connector then as currently they used an rj11 (phone) with only 4 wires..

And pictures please. we love pictures.

I forgot to monitor this post. I now realize it's not completely clear what to do with C3, C4 and C5...

C2 is GND and is the common for C3, C4 and C5. So, connecting C2 to C4 or C5 wil set the unit to preset 2 or 3. C3 is actually not connected in the RJ11 connector on the unit!

I took the project a little further and actually build a PLC (Eaton Easy-E4+analoge extension) into my Brinkman unit. I connected 4 extra temperature sensors, one for each inlet/outlet, and also connected C6 (filter) and the bypass to the PLC.
The external RJ-11 connector has no connection for C3 but the signal is available on the PCB inside the unit. By placing my PLC inside the unit, I could access the C3, C4, and C5 input signals. You can program spd0 in the unit for use when no signal is connected. spd1 when C3 is connected to C2, spd3 for C4 and spd4 for C5. So now I have 4 speed selections instead of 3 While using only 3 of the 4 outputs relays on my PLC. Allowing me to switch to an even lower speed when it's getting really cold (or really hot) outside.

The bypass signal from the PCB is a 24Vdc signal that powers a relay for the 230V to the bypass actuators. I managed to connect that 24V volt signal to an input on my PLC and use the last output of my PLC to power the relay. I can now let the PLC decide to follow the signal of the PCB or to use the temperature readings of the extra sensors to control the bypass valves.

The Easy-E4 has an option to send emails on an event so I use that option to send an email to myself when the filter is dirty.

The PLC communicates to the outside by ethernet. A keystone will actually fit in the hole of the RJ11 connector giving it a super professional finish.

I used another Easy-E4 (wired to a panel with 6 pushbuttons and indicator LED) to manually control the brinkman or to put it on automatic. This enables me to manually control the speed of the unit but also to manually open the bypass or force it to stay closed.

The Easy-E4 also has Modbus TCP and I use that to communicate with Domoticz. Allowing me to use the cold of the night to cool my house with the bypass when the next day will be hot and keep the bypass closed a.s.a.p. to keep the cold in the house. And it allows me to keep the heat inside when the next day will be cold. If it's cold and sunny I can even open the bypass and let the warm air from my roof heat up the house without the cooler air from the house cooling it down.

I also managed to fit a S1 energycounter inside to monitor the power consumption.

The fans seem to be controlled by a 0-10V signal. I think the use the current/torque of the motor to monitor the pollution of the filter and i don't know how to get that torque signal into my PLC. So, I still use the PCB for the control of the fans. Maybe, if the PCB fails, I will use the 2 analoge outputs on my Easy-E4 to control the fans.

[T1NBK]

Adding on the conversation, it is quite 'easy' to control a Brink HRV with OpenTherm. I used a board from Tindie as a control board.
https://www.tindie.com/products/jiripra ... no-shield/

I've done a full write up on how to control (and read the sensors) for a Brink HRV myself: https://portegi.es/blog/opentherm-wtw-1
You can read 2 temperature sensors; supply and exhaust temperature, the fan speed and a few other things via OpenTherm.

In my setup I just push them to Home-Assistant via MQTT and then graph them in Grafana

Nice shield. Did you manage to find all states of the unit? Does it also report when the filter is dirty? And can you control the fan speed in an analog way or is it still in steps?

[Hesmink]

I also managed to fit a S1 energycounter inside to monitor the power consumption.

I have the same unit. How it the power consumption in different modes?
I changed the middle mode to 150 to use that as 'home' mode.