Home fan speed setting using ACM-LV10

[marcfon]

Just a quick note to confirm the this PWM > Voltage converter works perfectly in combination the fibaro rgbw module. I've hooked it up to my Buva Boxstream ventilation system and everything works great.

buva_boxstream_fibaro_rgbw.jpg (222.95 KiB) Viewed 7659 times

There was one important thing I had to do to make it work my case. I had to remove the RF module that was present in the Boxstream. I even called the manufacturer and he confirmed that the 0-10v steering can't be used in combination with the RF module.

[sumo89]

Hi!
I just bought a Fibaro RGBW myself, however, I'm not sure it's really working correctly... I'm also trying to control a fan (which might support PWM). But I see nothing on the outputs with a multimeter - should I be able to measure voltage between like "R" and ground with PWM? I also tried this setup with LEDs:
http://dreamgreenhouse.com/reviews/2014 ... /index.php

But nothing on the outputs. I've tried like 10 different options on parameter 14. Am I doing something wrong or is the RGBW broken?

[robgeerts]

Could someone draw me picture of how you connect the ACM-LV10 to the buva ventilation?
Is there a solution a can keep using my main unit to control the ventilation system?

20170227_182237.jpg (129.24 KiB) Viewed 7383 times

[RayAmsterdam]

Could someone draw me picture of how you connect the ACM-LV10 to the buva ventilation?
Is there a solution a can keep using my main unit to control the ventilation system?

IMG_20170303_213540.jpg (34.17 KiB) Viewed 7360 times

IMG_20170303_213540.jpg (34.17 KiB) Viewed 7360 times

Use the same colors on the buva as the main unit. You cannot keep the main unit, as you replace it by the ACM-LV10.

[robgeerts]

Thank you very much!!
I was hoping there was a solution for keeping the main-unit but this will do it for the meantime!

Do you think it may be possible to connecting 'something' to the main unit wich sends a signal to Domoticz to control the ACM-LV10?

[RayAmsterdam]

Maybe you could use a I2C ADC board, to convert the 0-10v from the main unit to I2C.

[robgeerts]

Ok, since I haven't got much knowledge of this kind of stuff, I dont think I will be able to fix this
Does someone have experience with this?

[MJvB]

Hi All!
I have the following situation:

I want to start with my central ventilation system via a KAKU control, preferably the ACM-LV10 and if possible withe the fully variable speed control.
The above posts are mentioning a newer type JE Storkair / Zehnder CFMeR system with the RF possibilty allready available from factory. I have an older JE Storkair / Zehnder CFMeR system with a little bit different board print layout. Does anyone know if my unit can support the ACM-LV10?

See the attached pic for my print layout.

[RayAmsterdam]

Hi All!
I have the following situation:

I want to start with my central ventilation system via a KAKU control, preferably the ACM-LV10 and if possible withe the fully variable speed control.
The above posts are mentioning a newer type JE Storkair / Zehnder CFMeR system with the RF possibilty allready available from factory. I have an older JE Storkair / Zehnder CFMeR system with a little bit different board print layout. Does anyone know if my unit can support the ACM-LV10?

See the attached pic for my print layout.

What are the white, blue and red wires for? Are they going to the wall controll? If yes, chances are high this is the connector you'll have to use.

[MJvB]

Well... my wall control is on the first floor I will remove the control to see...

[RayAmsterdam]

Well... my wall control is on the first floor I will remove the control to see...

I've had a better look at your picture. The blue/white/red wires are your motor controll. Your wall controll is probably a turning knob and connected to the ventilation box with perilex. Unfortunately I don't see any way to connect the Kaku.

[MJvB]

Ok.. that's a pity. I wil try the solution by adding a KAKU switch on the perilex than.

[m00st]

I have a BUVA Q-stream installed in my home. While every living / sleeping room has it's own control panel showing the time and CO2 levels, driving the FAN speed at high CO2 levels, it never hurts to have a little extra control via Domoticz

The room control units use KNX RF for which I do not know a way to control via Domoticz. So I opened up the control unit, noticing a 0 - 10v input. I wasn't sure i could control the unit via an ACM-LV10 while maintaining the fancy room control in parallel. So I sent a mail to the manufacturer. Fortunately, they were quite helpful and fast in their response as well. So I now have an ACM-LV10 driving the extra input of the Q-stream unit. Now I need to implement a humidity sensor in the bathroom for starting up the fan and perhaps a switch in the toilet..

Here's a quick video demonstrating things:

[MindBender]

If you use the 0-10V terminals, you MUST DISCONNECT the original RF unit.
There is an explicit warning about that in the manual, so I did not try to use them in paralel.

Indeed, you cannot wire two 0-10V outputs together under one 0-10V input terminal. This is due to the nature of 0-10V outputs, which are able to source to 0-10V if the voltage on the input terminal is too low, but which are also able to sink to 0-10V if the voltage on the input terminal is too high. The latter is often implemented as a resistor between the 10 or 12V supply and the 0-10V input, to make sure that the device runs at full speed if nothing is connected. With this in mind, two 0-10V outputs wired together will short each other out if for example one is sourcing 9V and the other is sinking 5V, possibly damaging the output devices (but not the input device).

Fortunately, there is a solution for this: If we could somehow prevent 0-10V outputs from sinking, the output with the highest voltage would 'win'. This is what we want, and can easily be achieved with a couple of diodes. Wire each 0-10V output through a diode to the input, put a 1k resistor in parallel with the input to make sure some current is drawn and Bob's your uncle. There will be a 0.6V voltage drop across the diodes, but I guess 0-9.4V will do fine. Use schottky diodes if it isn't.

Alternatively, a Qubino 0-10V dimmer can be used. Besides a 0-10V output, this dimmer also has a 0-10V input, which can be used to connect the RF receiver to. This will however require some action from Domoticz to propagate the input to the output.

[MindBender]

Below instructions to modify your ventilation unit to allow simultaneous remote and 0..10V control.

First remove the circuit board. Be careful here, because the main power supply capacitor carries 400V DC, for a long time after the unit has been unplugged! You can discharge it by shorting it (prepare for a spark!) or more gracefully using a multimeter with Low-Z voltage measurement.
Turn the board over and locate the 0..10V control terminal:

IMG_1899.JPG (61.75 KiB) Viewed 6389 times

The terminal is squared in red. The red arrow below it indicates the trace carrying the fan control signal. The left hand side of the T-junction carries the control signal from the receiver, the right hand side the control signal from the terminal.

First cut this trace in two places, as shown below:

IMG_1900.JPG (81.31 KiB) Viewed 6389 times

It is easier to make two adjacent cuts and remove the part in the middle to get enough clearance to prevent shorting both ends. Make sure not to loose this piece of copper on the board.

Now carefully scratch off the solder mask from the central tap of the T-junction:

IMG_1901.JPG (82.08 KiB) Viewed 6389 times

Make sure the trace is really clean, shiny copper.

[MindBender]

Now mount two diodes as shown here:

IMG_1902.JPG (80.32 KiB) Viewed 6388 times

Please observe the polarity of the diodes: The cathodes of the diodes should be connected to the T-junction center tap.
You could use any small signal diode, like for example a 1N4148, but to prevent too much voltage drop loss across the diodes, it is preferable to use schottky diodes, such as a BAT42.
Optionally, you could attach a wire to the T-junction center tap, to connect to a 0..10V input your Z-Wave module may have. This allow you to read back the fan speed in case the remote control is setting a higher speed than the Z-Wave module.

A caveat with this modification is that the 12V supply on the terminal is really weak; My Qubino module only draws 50mA, but this is enough to make the supply voltage drop to 8V. This is really weird because 50mA @12V is only 0.6 Watt and it is hard to believe the power supply is designed with such a small load tolerance.

So I had to add an external 12V power supply I salvaged, just to power my Z-Wave. This will slightly increase power consumption and decrease efficiency, but I didn't see another way. Fully installed my setup now looks like this:

IMG_1907.JPG (160.9 KiB) Viewed 6388 times

I hope this is useful to anybody else.

[henkosh]

ik lees dat jullie ervaring hebben met RFZ zenders in combinatie met de comfofan. Voor de oplossing mbt kaku zie ik voor de onderdelen alleen een dead link helaas. kan iemand mij helpen aan de juiste ontvanger voor deze ventilator zodat ik deze via 433 kaku kan aansturen in Domoticz?

gr, Henk

[tail663]

Why not using the 0-10volt dimmer from qubino?

I'm using it in my buva installation and there is no need for any other components or external power supply.

https://www.momotica.nl/Qubino-Flush-Di ... -Wave-Plus

Hi, i'm looking at this exact same solution although my Buva looks a bit different from the inside. (picture attached)
Can this be accomplismed anyway?

And most important question which still isnt clear to me: Do I need to remove the current attached "wall"-unit or is there a way to get both the Qubino and the "wall"-unit attached?


Link to fullsize picture: https://ibb.co/dXwPUw

[Bizzarrini]

Don't use the 12Volt power supply from the MV, use the seperate power supply.

Thanks to all the tips in this thread I got my MV control working with the Qubino 0-10v dimmer, very happy. Two questions, related to the quoted post above:

1) why not use the 12v from the MV? Seems to work fine so far. Any downsides?

2) I'm thinking of a way to determine actual fan speed, so I can see if the 3-position switch in my bathroom has been activated. It seems that there is a cable running back from the motor to the board (4-wire connector top left), perhaps a Hall effect sensor? Anyone know what the different wires are for?

Thanks again for all the help!