Domoticz

Hi.

I just wanted to avoid spending over a few hundred euros on automating my Brinks WTW system with: I thought it could be done a lot cheaper with Domoticz and Mysensors.
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7180/ ... te-systems

Next thing would be to power the whole device from the internal 24v of the WTW. Seems possible as described here.
https://www.brinkclimatesystems.nl/geta ... c19b8ddb90

Using the following cable lay-put. Currently mine is 3 wires only so have to modify it to 6 wire. For now I solved the problem. Using a max of € 10.
I Posted the code on Github, for details please follow mysensors forum link. As a result I am now able to write som code in such a way that the WTW will start working harder if somebody takes a shower.
(Hot water on for over 2 minutes and or humidity in specific area higher than 65%).

A just to show how It does work in reality.

Just for some extra information:
C3 is speed preset 1
C4 is speed preset 2
C5 is speed preset 3
C6 is dirty filter alarm indication.

C3 can be skipped becaurse the unit goes to speed preset 1 by default when C4 or C5 are not connected.
C6 is a +24Vdc too C2 when the filter is dirty. I used a solid state relay to create an isolated signal to connect this output to my PLC.

T1NBK wrote: ↑Wednesday 13 December 2017 22:23 Just for some extra information:
C3 is speed preset 1
C4 is speed preset 2
C5 is speed preset 3
C6 is dirty filter alarm indication.

C3 can be skipped becaurse the unit goes to speed preset 1 by default when C4 or C5 are not connected.
C6 is a +24Vdc too C2 when the filter is dirty. I used a solid state relay to create an isolated signal to connect this output to my PLC.

Hey excellent. mine sais FILL ore something like that on the display.
According to your information above I can monitor that as well???

I have to build a new connector then as currently they used an rj11 (phone) with only 4 wires..

And pictures please. we love pictures.

I summarized the information of this topic in a cheat sheet.
Source: https://github.com/IngmarVerheij/RenoventHR/

It can be used to convert the standard RJ11 to a RJ12 solution including filter warning (was not included by the building company in my setup) Only thing I need to do next is find out (without using buck converter) how to convert the 24v to an acceptable digital in for a raspberry / arduino digital '1'.

And the little box of tricks is ready.

Nice work! Following this thread with interest as I also have a Brink WTW unit which I want to hook up to Domoticz. Mine came with the remote control option but I don't have any 433 components in my setup (all zwave). Thanks for sharing, I'll take this up once I get time but might need some help

Maybe rflink could do the trick for 433mhz?
This solution is with mysensors.

@Sincze which components did you use? I would like to build this as well. Or do you also sell the boxes?

Components. Well all depends on what your goal is.

Could be as simple as a relais with WiFi build that one for the neighbours. Turns the thing to 3 if humidity in bathroom to high . Total investment 2.50 euro

Please let me know.

T1NBK wrote: ↑Wednesday 13 December 2017 22:23 Just for some extra information:
C3 is speed preset 1
C4 is speed preset 2
C5 is speed preset 3
C6 is dirty filter alarm indication.

C3 can be skipped becaurse the unit goes to speed preset 1 by default when C4 or C5 are not connected.
C6 is a +24Vdc too C2 when the filter is dirty. I used a solid state relay to create an isolated signal to connect this output to my PLC.

If I understand the above correctly, I only need to connect C5 to ???? to set the fan to speed 3? To what do I connect C5?

And can you simply put a RJ11 splitter in between the original switch and the climate system and on the extra port connect the C5 to ......?
I want to use the Fibaro Smart Implant (https://www.fibaro.com/en/products/smart-implant/) which has a "2x potential-free outputs (for controlling external circuits)", I can use the output to switch C5 and C4.

Extra info, at this link: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7180/ ... te-systems they talk about wire colours. For fan speed 3 black and red needs to be connected. But there are no pin numbers mentioned in this post. So on the RJ11 which pin is Red and which pin is black?

Anybody any suggestion in which pin needs to be connected to which pin to bring the fan to highest speed?

Try with a Dupont cable C5 to GND.
Should give the same result as a secondary switch.

Hello,

In addition to this, can above be realized with a shelly 2.5 as shown in picture, so with C1 to N, C2 to L, C4 to SW1 and C5 to SW2? It would help me a lot because I am a relative noob as it comes to this kind of automation.



Any confirmation or correction will be highly appreciated!

Thanks in advance...

Well, I'm not sure if that is possible. Not sure if there is 220V on one of the pins you are using the switch the climate control system. If there is 220V on the output for sure you will damage your climate control system.

That is why I'm using the Fibaro Smart Implant which can switch low voltage outputs. I'm using this now to control, amongst other devices, the climate control system.

You can keep it simple and cheap with a solution like this.
Tasmotize it. Costed me a few euro's.

I started looking into Arduino, there are many cheap devices/boards with WIFI modules. Those Arduino boards have digital outputs and maybe you can use such an output to switch on the climate control system. If you can find a solution like that you can fix it for something like 5 to 10 euro or so.

What i don't know if those Arduino outputs are potential-free outputs.

It's my intention to connect it to the RJ12 connector of the WTW with a standard flat cable and connector which also will provide the shelly of current. So no 220V involved. My simple thoughts were that this was the most simple solution (maybe not the cheapest, but I already had one laying around).

Like I said, I am not a specialist in electronics. So other options are interesting but then I need a step by step guide... and my googling skills brought me to this topic among others and for me the most clear.

THat will not work. Your shelly device needs 220V to power up! At least that is my expectation. WIthout 220V you cannot control your Shelly device.