Thermostatic radiator valve

[Hanss]

Dear forum readers,

I’m looking for a good solution in regards to thermostatic radiator valves (replacing the traditional ones) that are compatible with Domoticz software (X10 433MHZ or Zwave). This in combination with a smart Thermostat.
I read something about Honeywell Round Connected material, but I’m looking for the complete package. Is there anybody that can help me out with a suggestion, tip or solid answer?

Thanks in advance!

Best regards,
Hans

[marcelr]

I am using danfoss LC-13 thermostats, they do a good job. Haven't had them long enough to be able to say something about battery life. When it comes to the full package, you might want to have a look at this page:
http://www.z-wave.com/find_products/thermostats
Beware that most z-wave enabled thermostats have bang-bang control only. OK when you are in the Americas, in Europe, OpenTherm is more or less the boiler control standard. If your boiler can handle OpenTherm, don't fall back to bang-bang control, it's less energy-efficient.

grtz,

marcelr

[Hanss]

Hello Marcelr,

Thank you very much for this reply!!!
After reading the link you included and also your information, maybe the best thing to do right now, is to buy a Arduno temperature and humidity sensor in combination with an traditional thermostatic valve.
That way I can combine both functionality and it's also much cheaper (I think )


Best regards,

Hans

[marcelr]

maybe the best thing to do right now, is to buy a Arduno temperature and humidity sensor in combination with an traditional thermostatic valve.

I don't see how you can drive a traditional (= manually operated?) thermostatic valve with an Arduino, sensors and all. What am I missing here?

grtz,

marcelr

[Hanss]

Hello Marcelr,

Short answer... I doens't.
From my point of view it is just a monitoring function (temperature and humidity sensors) in combination with traditional thermostatic radiator valves.
I will adjust the thermostatic radiator valves based on te readings from the sensors. Nothing more or less.

Maybe it is just to soon to make a big investment with material that is not working 100% like I want to (functionality/costs).
I read a lot of project in regards to this matter, but there are always cons.

Greetz,

Hans

[Egregius]

I use Danfoss in combination with thermometers. Depending on stats, hour and some virtual switches the program decides to power the gasburner.
Works perfect in every way for my needs.

[SaiQmon]

I use Danfoss in combination with thermometers. Depending on stats, hour and some virtual switches the program decides to power the gasburner.
Works perfect in every way for my needs.

Hi!

- Can you drive Danfoss wireless radiator valve trough Domoticz, with wireless temperature sensor in each room? So like if room temp is under set point (measured by ext. temp sensor) it would command radiator valve to open more and vice versa?

My radiator valves are behind curtains, desk, sofa etc. so they cannot measure room temperature by themselves very well. That's why I need to use external sensor. I understood that temperature set point can be given for Danfoss, but it isn't enough.


I have one set of EQ-3 MAx! radiator valve + wireless room thermostat, and it works great, but I would like to integrate this functionality to Domoticz. EQ-3 isn't in good reputation here, so I might move to other system - maybe Z-wave? And the Cube! seems to be quite buggy at the moment.

I have oil burner, which heats up the central heating and there is domestic hot water heating coil inside, so I don't need to control the burner. But of course I could control the heating circulation pump?

Br, Simo

[marcelr]

My radiator valves are behind curtains, desk, sofa etc. so they cannot measure room temperature by themselves very well.

You can also remove the temperature sensor from the thermostat and reconnect it again with an extension wire.
(google translate with some editing of this post:
http://www.domoticaforum.eu/viewtopic.p ... 12&p=76036)

Open the thermostat (battery compartment cover off, batteries out, lift the hood on both sides of the compartment --use your fingernails, no tools required--. You can now remove the cover easily).
Locate the sensor on the round PCB. (it is the droplet-shaped component mounted against the display, in the mounted state at the 12 'o clock position on the board).
Gently bend the sensor away from the display.
Remove the display by pushing back the clips with which it is held, lift the display and gently push it upwards and away, from the PCB.

Solder the sensor from the PCB.

Solder a cable at the bottom (the radiator side) of the circuit board, to the connection points of the sensor. I used a twin cord from an old PC (with a two-pin female header plug).
Remount the display (in reverse order of removal).
Route the cable under the PCB to the battery compartment, along the side of the compartment, through one of the holes in the housing and lead it to the outside.
Close the thermostat by clicking the hood back on. Please ensure that the cable under the board is not clamped between the print and the triangular plastic part beneath it, but that it can move more or less freely.
Solder the sensor to a cable of desired length, and pack it correctly. (I used a piece of heat shrink for this). Solder a two-pole male header connector to the other end of the cable, and isolate well.
Put the male header in the female header on the thermostat knob.
(Instead of two pieces of cable, you can also use one cable, but the advantage of a split system is that you do not have a whole lot of coiled cable when you screw the thermostat back onto the radiator valve).
Mount the thermostat and the sensor in a place where the temperature can be measured properly.

All done.

grtz,

marcelr

[Egregius]

I use a function I wrote in PHP to 'overdrive' the setpoint.
Example: I want 20° in the room, if the room is only 19,7° the function sets the valve to 22°. I use the difference between setpoint and realtemperature multiplied by 5.
By now I had 3 different valves, none of them work as accurate as I desire. Like in the above example the valves stays closed.

Code: Select all

<?php
function setradiator($temp,$setpoint) {
	if($setpoint-$temp>0) $setpointSet=round($setpoint + (ceil(($setpoint-$temp)*5)),0); else $setpointSet=round($setpoint + (ceil(($setpoint-$temp)*5)),0);
	if($setpointSet>28) $setpointSet=28;else if ($setpointSet<4) $setpointSet=4;
	return $setpointSet;
}

[marcelr]

none of them work as accurate as I desire.

Agreed. I have two of them next to each other, set to the same temperature (and the same radiators, the same valves), the radiators they are attached to will not heat up to the same temperature. So accuracy probably IS an issue...

grtz,

marcelr

[Egregius]

Over/under setting the temp solves that issue

[BazsoDombiAndras]

Hello Guys!

I don't see an answer to the question: Can Domoticz turn on/off the Danfoss LC-13 radiator valves?
Is there any other wireless raditator valve compatible with Domoticz?

Thanks!

[Egregius]

Isn't a temperature setpoint of 4° or 28° the same as off / on?

[BazsoDombiAndras]

So, Egregius, are you saying that Domoticz can set the temperature setpoint on the Danfoss LC-13?

[Egregius]

Did you read this topic?