Domoticz

Hi all, a tip for Domoticz/RFXCom users in the Netherlands:

I have bought a KlikAanKlikUit AWMR-230 Mini switch to be mounted behind an existing light switch http://www.klikaanklikuit.nl/shop/inbou ... -awmr-230/ . Altough it works fine, i think 30 euro's is way too expensive. But you can buy a light switch which can be controlled by Domoticz+RFXCom for as low as 2,75 euros!

How? Buy an Impuls remote control set (3 for 7,99 euros at Action, http://www.voordeelmuis.nl/img/gif/1081/1081090.gif). Dismantle the switches; the innerparts fit perfectly in the exisiting recessed wall box behind the existing light switch.
If you want to stick with KAKU switches, you can also buy the APA2-2300R switches, the innards of that switch are even smaller than the Impuls ones. http://www.homewizard.nl/media/catalog/ ... pa-1-2.jpg

The only thing you have to do is solder some longer wires to the PCB, otherwise it works perfectly.

Really neat idea, brings technology down to sensible price.

I guess my only concern is safety, noramlly these relays are inside a sealed plastic unit and so if the light switch is removed then no live wires are exposed.

Please could you upload a photo of the inner parts? Thanks.

When put behind the original lightswitch, it's still enclosed & safe. And when you remove the light switch from the wall, the wires of the switch are exposed also. The depth of modern recessed box (inbouwdoos) in the Netherlands is 50 mm (in the picture, a 40mm model is shown) . The height of the electronics is around 20mm, a normal light switch can be mounted in front of it. Mounting a socket (stopcontact) in front is not possible because those recess deeper.

How do you control them?
Using RFXCom? It's quite expensive...
Or did you made a interface other way?

andriej wrote:How do you control them?
Using RFXCom? It's quite expensive...
Or did you made a interface other way?

Yes, RFXComTRX433

Nice tip!
Bought a set today

andriej wrote:How do you control them?
Using RFXCom? It's quite expensive...
Or did you made a interface other way?

The set contains as remote cotrol....

I've got a question,

With this setup, can you use a normal light switch and a rfxcom to switch? Or only the rfxcom?

Thanks for the tip, gonna buy these anyway.

Flyingdodo wrote:I've got a question,

With this setup, can you use a normal light switch and a rfxcom to switch? Or only the rfxcom?

Thanks for the tip, gonna buy these anyway.

You can use the original KAKU remote control, a KAKU light switch like http://www.klikaanklikuit.nl/shop/wands ... awst-8800/, or the RfxCom

I see no reason why you could not use the orginal (mechanical) lightswitch in parallel as well, but i haven't tested that.

Does it use the 'simple' code-system like A1/A2/A3 or the 'more advanced' codes like 0515C62?

The Impuls switches need to be programmed by DIP switches. Codes range from House Code A-P and Unit Code 1-64. So you could give it the address like L43.
See RFXCOM user manual par. 7.3 page 20.
Don't forget to select the type "Impuls" when manual adding the device.
/paul

Cool... I will buy 2 sets then to put under the christmas tree!

piotr wrote:

pwhooftman wrote: I see no reason why you could not use the orginal (mechanical) lightswitch in parallel as well, but i haven't tested that.

When you use the mechanical switch to turn the light of, you will cut the power to the kaku and you won't be able to switch the light back on with the remote/rfxcom. What if we combine this switch with a relay-switch ?

Not if you put the mechanical switch and Kaku in parallel instead of serial (follow picture #5, not #4)

Hello, I'm living in germany and
I have about 10 Steinel sensor lamps with a lot of room inside..
so i will try to use a cheap RF switch to 'upgrade my lamps' with a RF switchable permanent 'bridge' so I can change between sensor mode and permanent mode and switch lamp on and off at the same time..

For this I use a wire with kaku switch in the middle connecting L with L'
What do you think about this...

Where can I buy some cheap interior?

Not sure if this is the right place but ,
I recently bought a kit of these cheap Impulse electro light switches from Action.

The range is ok , i am controlling them with a rfxcom 433mhz unit.
On this unit i already changed the antenna to 1/2 wave length, the range has improved a little for my wind meter outside but id like to switch some lights in the garage and some lights on the porch and the gate at the house.
The distance is a bit to big i noticed and sometimes the relay does work when i kept my hand nearby.

I decided to open a unit to make a antenna but this is not so simple.
As it is not like the sensors that i have modified successfully from my weather station.

I have some pics , maybe someone knows how to do this because this is not a typical antenna , because after this little wounded antenna a resistor is placed and it follows a route on the PCB.
I am not sure how this works and if this is possible to replace the old antenna for a bigger / better one.


The round red circle shows the bottom of the pcb were the antenna is located
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104 ... 150343.jpg

Green is the transistor and a C that connect to the little coil antenna
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104 ... 150407.jpg

red circle is the resistor that is connected on the end of the antenna
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104 ... 150417.jpg


some other pics
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104 ... 150427.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/104 ... 150456.jpg

piotr wrote:In picture #5:

Switch the light on with the mechanical switch: I don't see how I could switch the light off with the remote.

You are right, the mechanical switch acts as an 'override' to switch the light on.

pwhooftman wrote:

piotr wrote:In picture #5:

Switch the light on with the mechanical switch: I don't see how I could switch the light off with the remote.

You are right, the mechanical switch acts as an 'override' to switch the light on.

You have to very carefull how you connect the 3 wires. It depends where you want to switch the lights. I used one of these impuls switches to override the 'hotel' switches for my garden lights so i can always switch 'on' the lights using Domoticz no matter the position of the 'hotel' switches. If set 'off' by Domoticz the normal 'Hotel' switch function still works. There are three wires which i connected like:
black = neurtral (blue)
red1(near black) = live (brown)
red2 (most right) = lamp (black)
The lamps are between the black wire and neutral (blue)

Harry

Great! How did you open the Impuls set? Seems like you need some kind of special forked screwdriver... Does any body know the name of this kind of screwdriver?

EDIT: this one works http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Best-sell ... 78768.html

SweetPants wrote:

pwhooftman wrote:

piotr wrote:In picture #5:

Switch the light on with the mechanical switch: I don't see how I could switch the light off with the remote.

You are right, the mechanical switch acts as an 'override' to switch the light on.

You have to very carefull how you connect the 3 wires. It depends where you want to switch the lights. I used one of these impuls switches to override the 'hotel' switches for my garden lights so i can always switch 'on' the lights using Domoticz no matter the position of the 'hotel' switches. If set 'off' by Domoticz the normal 'Hotel' switch function still works. There are three wires which i connected like:
black = neurtral (blue)
red1(near black) = live (brown)
red2 (most right) = lamp (black)
The lamps are between the black wire and neutral (blue)

Harry

Thanks Harry, exactly what I was looking for. I want to 'add' a functionality to my lights. Not take away the normal switching. So just to clarify, If I add this to one of the 'hotel' switches, both normal switched AND the 433mhz will work? If so then I will have a new project.. I will add to all my swtiches!

SweetPants wrote:

pwhooftman wrote:

piotr wrote:In picture #5:

Switch the light on with the mechanical switch: I don't see how I could switch the light off with the remote.

You are right, the mechanical switch acts as an 'override' to switch the light on.

You have to very carefull how you connect the 3 wires. It depends where you want to switch the lights. I used one of these impuls switches to override the 'hotel' switches for my garden lights so i can always switch 'on' the lights using Domoticz no matter the position of the 'hotel' switches. If set 'off' by Domoticz the normal 'Hotel' switch function still works. There are three wires which i connected like:
black = neurtral (blue)
red1(near black) = live (brown)
red2 (most right) = lamp (black)
The lamps are between the black wire and neutral (blue)

Harry

That mimics the functionality of the AWMR-230 (http://www.klikaanklikuit.nl/shop/nl/in ... -awmr-230/) well; would be an attractive alternative. Also because the AWMR-230 doesn't work with smaller LED and compact fluorescent lamps, as there is a small leak current when switched off. I had lamps flickering instead of off (the kika-service desk offers a small extension with a resistor for free for that issue)

I can't figure out how to connect the wires. I'll be fine just replacing the normal switch with the Action-switch, although a hotel-schakeling would be better off course.

There are three wires in the Action-switch. How do I connect those to the two wires that are in the current (normal) switch? I added a picture of the Action-switch for clarity. Thanks in advance!

Picture of the switch: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qx1hefpaai4yr ... h.JPG?dl=0